- Time of year: mid January
- Temperature: 28-32 C, dry comfortable heat (but February would be more
- Travel companion: Husband, and meeting up with local friends
- Films/tv-series to watch before you go: I could not find anything, if you have a suggestion, please share.
- What to pack: Daytime = flip flops or sandals and casual. Some high-end restaurants have a slightly more formal dress code, so a dress for women and a blazer for men would do the trick.
- Where to stay:
- Central Franschhoek: The Belmont (budget), Le Quartier Francais (luxury)
- Outskirts: Angala Guesthouse (mid-priced)
- How to get around: You need to rent a car to get to Franschhoek, but while there, you can rely on Uber or take the Winetram.
Franschhoek is my guilty pleasure, a destination I find myself returning to time and again. It’s a feast for all the senses, with stunning colonial houses and buildings nestled in lush greenery, lavender fields and mountains providing a breathtaking backdrop. This charming town boasts more gourmet restaurants, friendly locals, excellent service, and fantastic hotel experiences per capita than anywhere else in the world. If the Michelin Guide ever decided to review places in Africa, they would have a field day—and quite possibly, never leave. In addition, compared to European or American equivalents, the food and the wine is incredibly inexpensive.
The French heritage
Many of the hotels and restaurants in Franschhoek have French names. The reason is the town’s history which is deeply intertwined with the Huguenots, French Protestants who fled religious persecution in the late 17th century. Around 300 Huguenots sought refuge at the Cape of Good Hope between 1688 and 1689. The Dutch East India Company granted them land in what is now Franschhoek. They brought extensive knowledge of viticulture and winemaking, significantly influencing the region’s development. Many of the farms and vineyards they established still exist today, contributing to Franschhoek’s reputation as a premier wine-producing area. As with all colonialism, there is a lot of darkness to the history which should not be forgotten. The local Hugenot museum tells it all.
But first coffee
- Babylonstoren – coffee perfection on a colonial farm – destination on its own – 20 min
- Terbodore – coffee, sandwiches and cakes (and some times a real Terbodore) – downtown Franschhoek
Three hour lunches – at least
In this region, almost all wineries offer wine tastings, and roughly half of the wineries have restaurants. My friend Joanne since 30 years, a long-time Capetonian, swears by the three hour lunch sittings at the wineries, and who am I to argue. These leisurely meals are either a picnic basket lunch or a la carte, naturally paired with the estate’s wine. However, it’s wise to book in advance to secure a spot.
The wineries here vary greatly in atmosphere. Some are very family-friendly, complete with playgrounds and bean bags, while others cater more to serious wine enthusiasts and offer a more formal dining experience. I appreciate this diversity. Here are some of our favorites:
- La Petite Ferme (great views of the valley and superb food as well as hotel)
- La Motte (great food and surroundings, also has picknicks)
- Leapard’s Leap (modern family style food)
- Warwick (laid back country side style by a pond, mostly picknicks)
Evening restaurants
As 20 of the 76 restaurants in Franschhoek are Michelin-level, it is super difficult to point out the best restaurants in Franschhoek. What ever you decided on, you must make a reservation, well in advance. The easiest way is to use the app Dineplan. As with good restaurants anywhere, many of the establishments require a down payment to hold a table. If you would like additional restaurant reviews, go to https://gourmetguide.co.za/.
- Le Petit Colombe – modern elegance, FINE dining with extra treats at the end. Located at the foot of the mountain. Top notch.
- Protogé – down town – a little fancy, a little fun – never failed us. Same owner as Le Petite Colombe but much more casual.
- Grand Provence Estate – post card beautiful premises in classic style. Food is super creative and with the finest ingredients.
- Post & Pepper (Stellenbosch) – casual with great tasting menu. A 30 min drive from Franschhoek, but worth the trip. As a bonus, you get to walk around the university town Stellenbosch with a handful of cute shops, bistros and coffee places.
Local markets
Many of the local markets in the Western Cape are a lovely mix of local handicrafts like homemade foods, jewelery, ceramics AND several food stalls and at least one bar where you can sit down for a slow lunch and listen to live music. The Franschhoek village market is no exception. Open every Saturday between 9-3. If its raining or a bit cool outside, hop in the car and drive to Elgin Railway Market, an indoor market that is hosted in an old apple warehouse, open Saturday and Sundays 9-4.
Where to stay…
As with the restaurant options in Franschhoek, you are choosing between good, great or amazing, even with most budget level. A couple of times we have stayed in central Franschhoek to be able to walk to some of the restaurants, and equally many times we have stayed a taxi drive away to enjoy tranquility and easy access to hiking trails. (Recommendations at the top of the article.) Next time I am going to Franschhoek I hope to stay at Leeu House, Akademie Street Boutique Hotel and Guest House, Last Word, and La Petit Ferme.
Last two times we visited Franschhoek we stayed slightly outside the town in the bush, half way up the mountain at Angala Guesthouse. They define themselves as barefoot luxury hotel. Well fitting for a tranquil place with a natural pool and where the guests walk around barefoot.
Worth a detour
The Hemel-en-Aarde (heaven and earth) area is renowned for its elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and features over 20 wineries along a 20-kilometer route. The route winds through a scenic valley, offering stunning views of nature reserves and the South Atlantic. It consists of three contiguous Wine Wards. These wards are known for their terroirs, contributing to the distinctive flavors and high quality of the wines produced. Each ward has its own microclimate and soil composition, ideal for growing premium grape varieties.
On (almost in) the water in Hermanus, 90 minutes of scenic drive. Low key, friendly super small restaurant Perlemoen, specializing in locally sourced abalone. Great views, and so much joy to watch the brave swimmers by the pier.
The trips to Franschhoek took place 2024, 2020, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2008
