Brooklyn – a mixed bag of charm and neglect

Posted on by Margaretha Finnstedt
  • Time of year: mid October
  • Temperature: 22-26 C, dry comfortable heat, around 15 C at night
  • Travel companion: Solo during daytime, met up with (working) husband for dinner
  • Films/tv series to watch before you go: Moonstruck and the Cosby Show (and so many more)
  • What to pack: Daytime – super casual (sneakers, jeans & t-shirt or like the local women, yoga pants and t-shirt). Night time – also casual, jeans, boots and a nice shirt.
  • Where to stay: Ace hotel – 100% hipster, but great DJ
  • How to get around: rent a bike or Uber

I’m part of the generation that grew up with the Cosby Show, and I thought Lisa Bonet was the coolest person in the world. Microbrews and yoga pants? Not so much. But with all the buzz about Brooklyn’s rising popularity, I decided to see for myself if this New York suburb could be a destination for Generation X too.

The short answer? It wasn’t love at first sight. Brooklyn is a mix of the gorgeous and the neglected, a blend of charm and grit. Yet, as I wandered through its eclectic neighborhoods, I found myself appreciating its unique character. It’s a place where history and modernity collide, and while it may not have been an instant hit, I’m glad I gave it a chance. Brooklyn has its own kind of magic, one that’s worth experiencing, even if it takes a little time to fully appreciate.

Carroll Gardens
Park Slope

Brooklyn – 7 districts, 66 neighborhoods

Brooklyn is three times the size of Manhattan. So covering all of it would take weeks. During my four day visit, I managed to visit four of the seven districts, much thanks to my rental bike that took me some 24 miles through Greenpoint, Williamsburg, Navy Yard, Dumbo, Downtown Brooklyn, Brooklyn Heights, Cobble Hill, Boerum Hill, Carroll Gardens, Red Hook, Gowanus, Sunset Park, Park Slope, Prospect Park, Prospect Hights, Crown Heights and Bedford-Stuyvesant. Some of these areas are well cared for and I would move in an instant, whilst others have been left to fall apart, and quite frankly are quite repulsive.

Brownstone haven

One of the delights of Brooklyn is the opportunity to admire its iconic brownstones, just like the house where the Huxtables lived (Brooklyn Heights). Nearly every neighborhood I visited featured at least a few blocks of these architectural gems, which emerged in the mid-19th century as Brooklyn transitioned from farmland to suburb. These brownstones, which flourished between 1860 and 1880, showcase a blend of architectural styles, characterized by high stoops and bay windows.

For the best-preserved examples, you don’t need to venture far—just cross the bridge to Brooklyn Heights. If you have more time, Carroll Gardens and Park Slope also boast some prime specimens. During my visit, which was three weeks before Halloween, many of the stoops were beautifully decorated, making for a delightful visual treat.

Williamsburg: hipsters and Hermés

Williamsburg, the hipster epicenter, is a vibrant blend of microbreweries, artisanal coffee shops, vintage clothing stores, record shops, pop-up galleries, tattoo parlors, quirky boutiques, and cocktail bars. As I wandered down Bedford Avenue, the main artery of Williamsburg, I kept an open mind. There was something familiar about this area, but it took me a moment to realize that the vibe and the slightly worn-down buildings transported me back to my college days. However, the housing and shops here cater more to DINKs (double income, no kids). It’s an ideal spot to mingle with people in their 20s and 30s.


On North 6th Street in Williamsburg, the scent of pot gradually gives way to the aroma of matcha and oat milk lattes. This street begins with a sleek new high-rise residence on the East River and stretches into revamped warehouses hosting premium retailers like Hermès, Patagonia, Birkenstock, and Lululemon. Despite the shops being housed in old industrial buildings, which should lend an air of authenticity, the area feels almost too perfect, too gentrified. On this quiet weekday, it was sleepy and serene. I soaked it all in but found myself leaving quicker than I had anticipated.

North 6th Street
North 6th Street

Red hook and Sunset Park

Red Hook is a stark contrast to the polished streets of western Williamsburg. No Hermès in sight—at least, not yet. With construction buzzing all around, it’s only a matter of time. But for now, you can savor the charm of this neighborhood as it stands, offering a glimpse into its pre-transition days. It’s a bit rough around the edges, but that’s part of its allure.

This peninsula boasts stunning views of the Statue of Liberty and the Manhattan skyline, making it feel more like a laid-back village than a part of New York City. The pile of wood in front of Hometown Bar-B-Que says it all: Red Hook is authentic, gritty, and undeniably charming.

South of Red Hook lies, Sunset Park, which is not at all what its name suggests. Instead of a serene haven with park benches and romantic restaurants, this area is home to a prison and a cluster of industrial buildings. But don’t let that deter you—there’s a hidden gem here worth exploring, the Brooklyn Grange, the world’s largest urban rooftop garden.

Spanning 5.6 acres across three rooftops in Brooklyn and Queens, Brooklyn Grange grows over 80,000 pounds of organic produce annually and operates New York City’s largest apiary. This incredible farm supplies numerous local restaurants with fresh vegetables and has been a beacon of sustainable urban agriculture since its inception in 2010. The farm is open to the public one Sunday every month. Once you are up there, you can see the Manhattan skyline, a striking contrast to the prison next door. No credit cards excepted.

Open House – striking gold

I didn’t even know it existed, so I was delighted to discover Open House New York (OHNY). OHNY is a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting broad access to the city’s most fascinating places, people, projects, and ideas. This event offers unparalleled opportunities to explore New York City’s architectural and cultural treasures, including the Brooklyn Grange and art palaces like Powerhouse Arts, housed in a former turbine hall.

Some venues require pre-booking, but many simply allow you to show up and explore. It’s like uncovering hidden gems scattered throughout Brooklyn and beyond. This experience alone is a compelling reason to return and delve deeper into the city’s rich tapestry. If you ever get the chance, don’t miss out on this extraordinary event—it’s a true celebration of New York’s vibrant and diverse heritage.

Culinary Delights

Dining in Brooklyn is fun and relaxed, a culinary journey that promises excitement at every turn. From Michelin-starred establishments to charming delis and start-ups, the vibrant and diverse food scene is a feast. Here, avoiding franchises and food chains is a breeze. If, like me, you love the charm of semi-formal and informal independent restaurants featuring New American cuisine, Brooklyn is your playground.

Picture this: small, cozy restaurants with ambitious chefs and sommeliers, each one a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. My absolute favorite? The fried shrimp loaf at Strange Delight, a dish so divine it could make angels weep, perfectly paired with a crisp wine from Oregon. And if that’s not enough to tempt you, their oysters are a must-try. Don’t let the messy area outside deter you—inside, culinary magic awaits. Just remember to make a reservation, because this is one experience you won’t want to miss. For reviews and reservations, use Resy or Eater or the Infatuation.

Manhattan vs Brooklyn

One of the most striking differences between Manhattan and Brooklyn is the people. Certainly, also in Brooklyn there are tourists, but the vast majority actually live here, in contrast to Manhattan that is a mixed bag of commuters, tourists and of course locals. This creates a different atmosphere that is more relaxed and a lot more friendly. So even as a visitor, the friendliness of the locals made it feel like a neighborhood rather than a tourist destination.

A highlight was our night at the Ace Hotel, where the bar buzzed with energy thanks to a lively DJ. The atmosphere was inclusive—60-70% of the crowd seemed to be locals, and we felt part of the gang. The drinks were exceptional, and as the night progressed, people began dancing, turning the bar into a joyful celebration.

October – best time of year for New York

Summer in New York can be sweltering, but October hits the sweet spot. The days are warm enough for a t-shirt, the leaves are ablaze with color, and if you time it right, the latter half of the month brings a delightful array of Halloween decorations. For a break from the bustling streets and a chance to soak in the autumn foliage, head to Brooklyn’s largest green space—Prospect Park.

Hop on your bike and take a leisurely ride around the park, marveling at the vibrant trees. Then, make your way to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, where the natural beauty continues to unfold. After exploring the gardens, reenergize with a delicious lunch and a glass of New York wine at the Yellow Magnolia Café. (Pro tip: skip the canteen next door for a more refined dining experience.) This October escape offers the perfect blend of nature, relaxation, and seasonal charm.

Biking Through the Borough

Brooklyn’s vastness can be daunting, but biking is an excellent way to explore its neighborhoods. The city’s bike-sharing program offers day passes for $19, allowing for unlimited rides under 30 minutes. I found the experience joyful 90% of the time, especially biking along the water – with minimal traffic lights, stunning views and a sense of tranquility. However, caution is key, as bike lanes can sometimes blend with vehicle traffic, particularly in busier areas in Downtown Brooklyn. For those with achy knees, electric bikes are also available.

Brooklyn: A Place to Return?

So, is Brooklyn a place for me to return? And would I recommend it to my friends? Without a doubt, Brooklyn offers a different experience compared to the more refined and established offerings of Manhattan. For my friends who relish moments of surprise, alternative art and music scenes, and a bit less polished experiences, I would say absolutely. However, for those who prefer the high-end shopping of New Bond Street in London or Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, Brooklyn might not be their cup of tea.

Will I go back? I would return for the Open House weekend, the Halloween decorations, to see how Red Hook and some of the other neighborhoods evolve over the coming years, and of course, for the Shrimp Loaf at Strange Delight—strangely delicious .

Margaretha Finnstedt

The Curated Atlas

Franschhoek – gourmet week without breaking the bank

Posted on by Margaretha Finnstedt
  • Time of year: mid January
  • Temperature: 28-32 C, dry comfortable heat (but February would be more
  • Travel companion: Husband, and meeting up with local friends
  • Films/tv-series to watch before you go: I could not find anything, if you have a suggestion, please share.
  • What to pack: Daytime = flip flops or sandals and casual. Some high-end restaurants have a slightly more formal dress code, so a dress for women and a blazer for men would do the trick. 
  • Where to stay:
  • How to get around: You need to rent a car to get to Franschhoek, but while there, you can rely on Uber or take the Winetram.

Franschhoek is my guilty pleasure, a destination I find myself returning to time and again. It’s a feast for all the senses, with stunning colonial houses and buildings nestled in lush greenery, lavender fields and mountains providing a breathtaking backdrop. This charming town boasts more gourmet restaurants, friendly locals, excellent service, and fantastic hotel experiences per capita than anywhere else in the world. If the Michelin Guide ever decided to review places in Africa, they would have a field day—and quite possibly, never leave. In addition, compared to European or American equivalents, the food and the wine is incredibly inexpensive.

Picknick at Warwick estate

The French heritage

Many of the hotels and restaurants in Franschhoek have French names. The reason is the town’s history which is deeply intertwined with the Huguenots, French Protestants who fled religious persecution in the late 17th century. Around 300 Huguenots sought refuge at the Cape of Good Hope between 1688 and 1689. The Dutch East India Company granted them land in what is now Franschhoek. They brought extensive knowledge of viticulture and winemaking, significantly influencing the region’s development. Many of the farms and vineyards they established still exist today, contributing to Franschhoek’s reputation as a premier wine-producing area. As with all colonialism, there is a lot of darkness to the history which should not be forgotten. The local Hugenot museum tells it all.

But first coffee

  • Babylonstoren – coffee perfection on a colonial farm – destination on its own – 20 min
  • Terbodore – coffee, sandwiches and cakes (and some times a real Terbodore) – downtown Franschhoek
Babylonstoren
Babylonstoren
Terbodore

Three hour lunches – at least

In this region, almost all wineries offer wine tastings, and roughly half of the wineries have restaurants. My friend Joanne since 30 years, a long-time Capetonian, swears by the three hour lunch sittings at the wineries, and who am I to argue. These leisurely meals are either a picnic basket lunch or a la carte, naturally paired with the estate’s wine. However, it’s wise to book in advance to secure a spot.

The wineries here vary greatly in atmosphere. Some are very family-friendly, complete with playgrounds and bean bags, while others cater more to serious wine enthusiasts and offer a more formal dining experience. I appreciate this diversity. Here are some of our favorites:

  • La Petite Ferme (great views of the valley and superb food as well as hotel)
  • La Motte (great food and surroundings, also has picknicks)
  • Leapard’s Leap (modern family style food)
  • Warwick (laid back country side style by a pond, mostly picknicks)

Evening restaurants

As 20 of the 76 restaurants in Franschhoek are Michelin-level, it is super difficult to point out the best restaurants in Franschhoek. What ever you decided on, you must make a reservation, well in advance. The easiest way is to use the app Dineplan. As with good restaurants anywhere, many of the establishments require a down payment to hold a table. If you would like additional restaurant reviews, go to https://gourmetguide.co.za/.  

  • Le Petit Colombe – modern elegance, FINE dining with extra treats at the end. Located at the foot of the mountain. Top notch.
  • Protogé – down town – a little fancy, a little fun – never failed us. Same owner as Le Petite Colombe but much more casual.
  • Grand Provence Estate – post card beautiful premises in classic style. Food is super creative and with the finest ingredients.
  • Post & Pepper (Stellenbosch) – casual with great tasting menu. A 30 min drive from Franschhoek, but worth the trip. As a bonus, you get to walk around the university town Stellenbosch with a handful of cute shops, bistros and coffee places.

Local markets

Many of the local markets in the Western Cape are a lovely mix of local handicrafts like homemade foods, jewelery, ceramics AND several food stalls and at least one bar where you can sit down for a slow lunch and listen to live music. The Franschhoek village market is no exception. Open every Saturday between 9-3. If its raining or a bit cool outside, hop in the car and drive to Elgin Railway Market, an indoor market that is hosted in an old apple warehouse, open Saturday and Sundays 9-4.  

Franschhoek village market
Elgin railway market

Where to stay…

As with the restaurant options in Franschhoek, you are choosing between good, great or amazing, even with most budget level. A couple of times we have stayed in central Franschhoek to be able to walk to some of the restaurants, and equally many times we have stayed a taxi drive away to enjoy tranquility and easy access to hiking trails. (Recommendations at the top of the article.) Next time I am going to Franschhoek I hope to stay at Leeu House, Akademie Street Boutique Hotel and Guest House, Last Word, and La Petit Ferme.

Last two times we visited Franschhoek we stayed slightly outside the town in the bush, half way up the mountain at Angala Guesthouse. They define themselves as barefoot luxury hotel. Well fitting for a tranquil place with a natural pool and where the guests walk around barefoot.

Angala guest house
Breakfast at Angala

Worth a detour

The Hemel-en-Aarde (heaven and earth) area is renowned for its elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and features over 20 wineries along a 20-kilometer route. The route winds through a scenic valley, offering stunning views of nature reserves and the South Atlantic. It consists of three contiguous Wine Wards. These wards are known for their terroirs, contributing to the distinctive flavors and high quality of the wines produced. Each ward has its own microclimate and soil composition, ideal for growing premium grape varieties.

On (almost in) the water in Hermanus, 90 minutes of scenic drive. Low key, friendly super small restaurant Perlemoen, specializing in locally sourced abalone. Great views, and so much joy to watch the brave swimmers by the pier.

Perlemoen restaurant in Hermanus

The trips to Franschhoek took place 2024, 2020, 2016, 2015, 2012, 2008

The feeling after the pork lollipops at Post & Pepper

Margaretha Finnstedt

The Curated Atlas

A spectacular blend of history and beauty

Posted on by Margaretha Finnstedt
  • Time of year: 3rd weekend in October
  • Weather: Cool mornings and nights (5-10 C), warm and dry when the sun is up 28-33 C.
  • Travel companion: My friend since 1990 – native from Türkiye
  • Films/tv-series to watch before you go: The Water Diviner (2014) with Russel Crow.
  • What to pack: Layered clothing. Mornings and nights are chilly whilst the sun takes day temperatures up to 25-30. Restaurants are casual, no need for dresses or suits. (hat and gloves are needed for the balloon tour)
  • Where to stay:  Fresco Cave Suites , Yunak House  
  • How to get around: Argeus

In 1990, I met my friend Ceylan during a Rotary-organized road trip across the USA. Thanks to Facebook, we reconnected digitally, and to celebrate our 50th birthdays, we decided to embark on a journey together to create new memories. Inspired by an article in National Geographic, we planned a three-day trip to Cappadocia—a fairytale-like destination in eastern Türkiye that offers both aerial adventures and subterranean explorations, where women in traditional attire and marathon runners share the same paths. One word summarizes this adventure better than anything else – spectacular.

Cappadocia’s unique topography and rich historical roots make it one of the world’s most captivating regions, blending natural wonders with layers of human history that span thousands of years. Once a haven for the most daring adventurers, this UNESCO World Heritage site is now being discovered by affluent travellers seeking authenticity, history, and breathtaking views.

From ballooning 800 meter above …

At the heart of Cappadocia lies its breathtaking, moon-like landscape, sculpted 70 million years ago by a volcanic eruption. The most enchanting way to appreciate these unique geological formations, particularly the “fairy chimneys,” is from a hot air balloon. From this vantage point, you can marvel at how the soft tuff rock, born from volcanic ash, has been meticulously shaped by wind and water into spires, deep valleys, and otherworldly rock formations. These natural wonders also house grottos that have served as homes, churches, and entire underground cities.

Not only does ballooning offer the best views, but it’s also a treat to watch the other balloons drift across the sky, piloted by skilled balloonists who can land with pinpoint precision. On the day we flew, we counted 96 hot air balloons in the air simultaneously. All balloon rides start early in the morning in the crisp, chilly air, allowing passengers to watch the sunrise from the balloon.

…To an Underground City 8 Stories Below

Hidden beneath the bustling market stalls selling souvenirs and carpets lies Kaymaklı, an ancient underground city dating back to the 7th century BC. As one of 36 such cities in Cappadocia, Kaymaklı is a subterranean marvel featuring intricate networks of living quarters, chapels, and daily life facilities, spanning up to eight levels deep. These underground cities provided refuge well into the 20th century during the Ottoman Empire’s persecutions. Rediscovered in 1963 when a local resident stumbled upon a concealed room, these hidden wonders are now open to the public, inviting you to explore their labyrinthine depths.

A word of caution: at 167 cm (5’6″), I found many of the passages low and narrow. Once back in the open air, refresh yourself with freshly squeezed pomegranate juice from a nearby stall before diving into carpet shopping.

Tokalı Church: A Feast for the Eyes

If your appetite for ancient history isn’t yet satisfied, make a stop at Tokalı Church, also known as the Buckle Church located in the Göreme National Park. Dating back to the 10th century, this church is the crown jewel of Cappadocia, renowned for its stunning, well-preserved blue frescoes. The frescoes are described in detail by Cappadociahistory.com.

Carpets Fit for Royalty

Today’s Cappadocia invites visitors to indulge in Turkish delicacies and craftsmanship, particularly carpets. In Ortahisar, we visited a store where, according to the owner, they had secured carpets for Buckingham Palace. I ended up purchasing a beautiful carpet for my office, which now lies under my feet as I write this.

Culinary Delights

Reconnecting with a friend I rarely see, we savored long breakfasts and dinners. Turkish breakfasts are a delight, offering a vast array of fresh fruits, vegetables, and bread. Typical Turkish dinners feature grilled meats with fresh vegetables—what’s not to love? Wine? Of course, the local wine named Turasan, that grows on volcanic terrain. We enjoyed the relaxed vibe at Ziggy Café, the stunning view and local wine at the wine bar Asim’in Yeri, and a leisurely lunch at The Old Greek House in the quaint town of Mustafapaşa, a village elected as UNTourism best tourism village

This trip was made October in 2021. We stayed at Fresco Cave Suites.

Margaretha Finnstedt

The Curated Atlas

Paris anniversary weekend – an homage to icons

Posted on by Margaretha Finnstedt
  • Time of year: 1st weekend in September
  • Weather: Sunshine and 28-33 C
  • Travel companions: Husband
  • Films/tv-series to watch before you go: Sex and the city (2008) to catch the air of the hotel.
  • What to pack: Your best…. or why not just go all in like Carrie Bradshaw
  • Where to stay:  Hôtel Plaza Athénée

———————————

Since you’re reading this, you’ve probably visited Paris before, maybe even more than once. This travel guide will not include any of the usual suspects, but rather a guide to a slow romantic weekend including some of the most iconic places. So, if you are looking for idea small and quirky places, stop reading. This is an homage to the finest of Paris.

The highlight of our weekend was undoubtedly our stay at the illustrious Hôtel Plaza Athénée. This iconic establishment, epitomizes Parisian elegance and luxury, offering an unforgettable experience that seamlessly blends historic charm with modern sophistication – and a view of the Eiffel tower. The experience starts even before you enter through the classic revolving doors of this classic hotel dating back to 1913. Shortly after making the booking,  the concierge contacted us offering to make restaurant recommendations and reservations (including the inhouse Dior Spa).

The view from our room

The hotel breakfast could be an article of its own. The menu is meticulously curated, yet the breakfast chef is ready to accommodate any additional requests. The extraordinary attention to detail and refined elegance are epitomized by the artfully sculpted butter. Can’t help thinking about how long it would take me to anything close to similar.

Fashion temples on your doorstep

The hotel is located on Avenue Montaigne which is part of the Golden Triangle of Paris and home to Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada. These high-fashion landmarks are not merely about clothing or accessories, but rather a tribute to the visionary designers who shaped them. Step inside these hallowed halls and experience more than just shopping: marvel at the exquisite interiors, savor the artistry of haute couture, and perhaps indulge in a glass of champagne. It’s luxury in its purest form, a celebration of style and history.

Dior
Dior
Dior

The street was originally named Allée des Veuves, or Widow’s Alley, a testament to its past as a gathering place for grieving women. On this bright September weekend, though, there was no sign of sorrow—only laughter and light. But this joy might be temporary, with the impending bill threatening to dampen spirits.

If you prefer a collection of more brands mixed up with home goods and a top-of-the-line food store, hop in a car and go directly to Le Bon Marché founded in 1852, blending the art of retail with the charm of Parisian culture, and miles of the hectic crowds at Printemps and Lafayette.

Home of Hermes

Just a twenty-minute walk from the hotel brings you to the original Hermès store at 24 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. This six-story building is a beautiful example of art deco architecture and a great place for anniversary gifts. It is a shop, but it also serves as a museum, showcasing two centuries of craftsmanship. Here, you can explore the full range of Hermès offerings: jewellery, bags, scarves, ready-to-wear clothing, home goods, and, of course, riding equipment.  (If you want to get the complete history of Hermes and their strategy, lean back and enjoy this four-hour episode of Acquired.)

Antiques ‘til you drop

If you would like to recreate a classic Parisian home when you go back, hop into a taxi to  Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, the largest antique market in the world, sprawling over seven hectares, a haven for collectors and enthusiasts alike. If you insist of taking the train, be prepared to fight your way through a gigantic fake bags market before you reach the antique market. The market has 5 000 stores divided into 16 sub areas, for the finest antiques, head to the area named Marché Paul Bert Serpette.

A quiet escape to the Tuileries Gardens

After a full day, relax and recharge among the vibrant flowers and greenery in the public parks. Let the peaceful surroundings help you unwind. If you only have time for one Parisian park, let it be the Tuileries Garden (Jardin des Tuileries), a historic park that stretches between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde. Originally designed in 1564 by Catherine de’ Medici, this iconic garden offers a serene escape from the city’s rush.

While wandering, do as Parisians do—pause for a moment in one of the classic green chairs by Edmond & Fils, that has hosted tired Parisians since 1923. Finish your stroll with a sunset cocktail at Le Café Marly, a terrace that provides magnificent arches and a view of the Louvre’s grandeur. (Just try not to let the snobby waiters spoil your moment.)

In summer, the park closes at 9PM, and rest of the year at 7.30.

La Suite Girafe

Food

I often hear people say that you will always get a good meal in Paris. I disagree. And if you are in Paris for only two or three days, why take a chance. For Paris you can rely on the Michelin guide for almost every type of food at many different price levels. The list includes 101 options and with multiple search options. Within this list, any choice is a good choice, from cosy classic bistros like Benoit or modern cuisine onboard gastronomic Seine cruise on Don Juan II. 

Although not in the Michelin guide, but with a stellar view of the Eifel tower that almost out stages the food, try the terrace at  La Suite Girafe, an upscale seafood restaurant located on the 9th floor of the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine.  The terrace was one part of the conservator’s apartment in the 1930’s.

Paris is magnetic, and I will never be “done” with the city of love. Do you have a icon that should be included in this list, let me know, it will give me a reason to return sooner than later.

This weekend took place in September 2023.

Margaretha Finnstedt

The Curated Atlas

Verona vibes – midnight opera and e-biking through the vineyards

Posted on by Margaretha Finnstedt
  • Time of year: 3rd weekend of August
  • Weather: Sunshine and 28-33 C
  • Travel companions: Three picky wine interested couples 50+
  • Films/tv-series to watch before you go: Letters to Juliet (2010), not for the story, but to catch a glimpse of the city
  • What to pack: Sunscreen, hat, shorts and t-shirt for biking, formal dress for the opera
  • Where to stay: Relais a Ponte Pietra (super comfy budget with large rooms and breakfast served in your room), Vista Verona (luxury)

If Naples embodies charming chaos, Verona is its poised counterpart. As you step into this ancient city of approx. 300,000, with its roots stretching back over 2,000 years to Roman times, you’re immediately struck by its elegance and historical depth. A UNESCO World Heritage site nestled on the banks of the Adige River—Italy’s second-largest—Verona echoes the splendor of Florence but with a quieter, cleaner, and less hurried vibe. It’s easy to see why Shakespeare set his tragic love story, Romeo and Juliet, in this timeless city. With more than 500 vineyards dotting the surrounding hills, it’s impossible not to fall in love with Verona and its scenic beauty.

Our primary draw to Verona was to experience an opera at the iconic Arena, but we found just as much joy e-biking through the rolling vineyards of Valpolicella. Combining these exceptional experiences with Verona’s stellar food and wine scene made this weekend one of our all-time favorites.

The midnight opera – 9 PM-midnight

Verona’s Arena, an amphitheater dating back to 30 AD, is a marvel of antiquity and a testament to Roman engineering. Hosting over 15,000 opera enthusiasts, it’s crucial to book early if you prefer padded seats close to the stage. Those who wait too long might find themselves with a true Roman experience—sitting on stone benches far from the action.

Seated in the 17th row, we were perfectly positioned to enjoy The Barber of Seville, enhanced by a full ensemble of dancers who took advantage of the expansive stage, offering a spectacle beyond what any traditional opera house could provide. Despite the heat, temperatures lingering around 27°C, the audience in the Poltronissime (first sector stalls) was immaculately dressed, adding to the evening’s grand atmosphere.

During intermission, guests can stretch their legs and enjoy refreshments in the ancient corridors, a surreal experience that marries two millennia of history with modern indulgence. With its efficient entrances and exits, the Arena’s organization is remarkable, allowing the vast audience to enter and leave with ease.

For dinner before the opera, Ristorante Vittorio Emanuele offers the perfect vantage point to watch elegantly dressed opera-goers pass by while sipping on a chilled Soave or a refreshing limoncello spritz. Reservations are a must if you want to secure a front-row table in the outdoor section. Inside, the restaurant’s decor transports you back to late 19th century—simply stunning.

Biking the vineyards

Originally, we hadn’t planned on biking, but with temperatures soaring to 30°C, the idea of walking through the city became less appealing. Enter Itinera Bike & Travel, an e-bike tour company offering guided rides through the vineyards with a sommelier. What better way to explore?

Verona’s vineyards are part of one of Italy’s most esteemed wine regions, celebrated for their diverse range of high-quality wines like Valpolicella (including Amarone), Soave (my new favourite white wine), Bardolino, Custoza, and Lugana. The fertile soil and favorable climate produce everything from robust reds to delicate whites and refreshing rosés. Our guide, Sofia, was a wealth of knowledge, not only about the wines but also about Verona’s rich history. She led us to Capurso Vineyard, a boutique winery where the owner, Selina, treated us to a tasting of their superb Amarone and even some unexpectedly delightful grappa.

The four-hour e-bike tour flew by, leaving us craving more. So much so that we rented e-bikes the following day for a self-guided tour using Itinera’s mobile app, which took us through equally stunning routes, biking near streams and passing by kiwi-trees.

Cooling Off with Granita and Gelato

With temperatures hitting 30°C, we relished every chance to cool down with granita and gelato, available on nearly every street corner. Granita, a semi-frozen dessert from Sicily, is lighter than ice cream and a perfect refresher in the heat. Our favorite spot was Q.B. Gelato La Ricetta Del Gelato Naturale on via Santo Stefano, where everything is made with natural ingredients. Do try the watermelon granita—it’s a revelation. (It was so tempting I forgot to take a photo before getting half way through). When you go, don’t miss the possibility to take the Funicular, a small cable car that takes you to the view point San Pietro castel that allows you to view the entire city. Once there, enjoy a local sparkling wine at Re Tederico.

Romeo, Juliet, and That Balcony

Yes, Verona has a balcony that claims ties to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it’s all part of the myth. The house may have inspired the story, but the balcony was added in the 1930s purely for tourism. Still, it’s worth a visit for a quick photo and a moment to appreciate one of the greatest love stories ever told.

Where to eat:

Osteria Ponte Pietra
Osteria la Fontanina
Osteria la Fontanina

This trip was made in August 2024.

Margaretha Finnstedt

The Curated Atlas

Hotel Sascher

48 hours in Vienna

Posted on by Margaretha Finnstedt
  • Time of year: 1st weekend of October, 2023
  • Weather: Sunshine and 20-25 C
  • Travel companions: four life loving (and picky) girlfriends in their 50s
  • Films/tv-series to watch before you go: The empress (Netflix, 2022), Amadeus (1984)
  • What to pack: The locals dress classy. Bring a blazer for daytime and a dress for the evening.
  • Where to stay: Hotel Sascher

As a first-time visitor to Vienna, my first thought when getting out of the taxi in downtown Vienna was: “What year is it?”. Had our driver taken us on a time-travel-detour to 1880? From almost every direction, I could see elegant 19th century open horse carriages, and hear the sound of clip-clopping horse hooves. To add to the impression, the beautiful historical buildings looked like they were just finished being built, crisp white, in pristine condition, almost like walking around a pastry shop full of gigantic wedding cakes, carefully decorated with delicate ornaments. A feast for the eyes. And it didn’t stop there. The Viennese know their brand and how to leverage it. You will find business minded and skilled musicians playing classical music wherever there is an open space and good acoustics.

The purpose of this review is not to share Vienna’s top 10 (there are plenty of those guides), but rather a guide to the good stuff enjoyed by picky people over 50. The focus for this trip was to discover classic Vienna (1st district) together with a couple of life loving, well traveled friends with appetite for the good stuff. Knowing the demanding crowd, all dinners and the first lunch were booked six weeks in advance. Do not expect walk-in availability if you are more than two. The same goes for the most popular museums.

What I loved:

The architecture

Although Vienna’s history takes you back to roman times, the stunning white “wedding cake experience architecture” is the result of a thorough city make-over, ordered by the emperor Franz Joseph in the 19th century. This is best enjoyed by foot. Start by the Opera house and then drop the map and use your wanderlust and get lost amongst the beauty around you.  

A.E. Köchert
1850 designs
Cajoy jewellery

Jewellery

For the finest jewllery, as well as a beat of history, make a long stop at A.E. Köchert on Neumarkt. Run by the same family for six generations, this jeweller became the favourite of the Austrian emperor and the famous empress Sisi. In the boutique you can browse through a selection of tiara designs and also buy your own Sisi diamond star.

For a (considerably) smaller investment, don’t miss the fun and colourful bijouterie from Austrian brand Cajoy Jewellery, specializing in statement earrings. The shop on Seilergasse 3 is just around the corner from A.E. Köchert.   

Wine

When given a choice, I choose white wine over red, as long as its not Chardonnay (I am a life time member of the ABC club, Anything But Chardonnay). There are 26 white wine varieties in Austria (14 red), including one of my favourites – the Grüner Veltliner – which is one of the native varieties in the country. In fact, the city of Vienna is situated in the middle of the wine district.

The Grüner Veltliner is the preferred grape amongst Austrians, but was a well kept secret outside the country until late 1900’s. It has a lot of similarities with a dry Riesling, but more spicy, peppery and with notes of stone fruit. Devine. Especially when the weather allows you to enjoy it outdoors.

We were thorough in our testing and consistently brought in a bottle to the table, or two. This grape works well on its own, and is also a perfect match to Schnitzel and Asian food. If you want to try a wide variety of the bubbly kind without breaking the bank, take a 10 min stroll to the wine bar Sekt Comptoir Szigeti on Schleifmühlgasse 19, a very laid back bar offering only Austrian sparkling wine, including of course sparkling grüner veltliner.

Austrian made clothing

I often whine about the sameness of shops and brands in larger cities. But in the heart of Vienna, we discovered numerous of individual mom-and-pop shops of making and selling classical Austrian clothing made of high-quality materials. And as you will notice when visiting Vienna on the weekend, you will meet quite a few of the Viennese proudly wearing these classical pieces and looking amazing. Don’t miss the unique pieces at Sisi Vienna on Annagasse,  Susanne Spatt of Salzburg on Plankengasse (that provides Austrian clothing to the Queen of Sweden).

For time travel and tailored men’s apparel (and a few women’s pieces) a stop at Jungman Wilhelm & Neffe, a Hotel Sacher neighbour is an absolute must. Even if your closet is full, the arrangement of wool fabrics, bow ties, umbrellas and shirts makes you need something more. And you would be properly dressed for any future royal event or hunting adventure, should they occur.

Pastry

Yes, get a slice of Sascher cake for the sake of it, but it’s quite a dry affair. If you love creamy pastry, chocolates and fruit pastries try anything else from the wide assortment of cakes at the coffee shop Konditorei Oberlaa located at Neuer Markt. They have lovely seating areas inside as well on the square in front of the building (and no cars). While enjoying our pastries (and wine) we saw a myriad of well-dressed Austrians of all ages exiting with beautiful packages of cakes and chocolates to take home for desserts.

Figlmüller

Pork  

What ever you do, don’t miss the pork sandwiches at Aumaerk Fleischmanufaktur on Seilergasse 14. In this posh hipster haven, you will find the juiciest pork sandwich in Europe, or possibly the world.

For the perfect schnitzel and eminent service (which unfortunately was rare in Vienna). They have been refining the art of schnitzel making since 1905 – you will not be disappointed. Without a reservation, expect to stand in line for 1,5-2 hours.

For more good pork, Asian food, and an amazing view, book a front row table at restaurant Onyx. Listed in Michelin as a Bib Gourmand venue, this hotel embedded restaurant located on the 6th floor allows your eyes to land straight on the coloured mosaic tiles roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, one of the symbols of Vienna.

Hotel Sascher

Hotel Sascher

It deserves a section of its own. But it’s not for the Sascher chocholate cake. Instead, it’s the interiors on the first floor. Particularly the collection of bars with colour. The blue bar, the red bar and the green bar. Each one of them striking in their own ways, filled to the brim with lush décor of large flower arrangements, crystal chandeliers, portraits of the rich and famous from history, embedded in large gold frames. Sitting down in the blue bar (Blaue bar) you will experience immaculate service, a curated menu of drinks and an atmosphere that I can guarantee was the same when it was established in the late 1900’s. Simply stunning, but small. Make your reservations early.

The hotel has hosted all kinds of royalty including Kind Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson, Queen Elizabeth, Grace Kelly, John F Kennedy, Placido Domingo and John Lennon (that hosted one of his press conferences here).

Wiener Sängerknaben

The finest boy voices in the world since 525 years. If you can’t find a concert while you are in Vienna, you can hear them sing in Hofburgkapelle (the royal chapel) during mass. If this is you option, pay the extra money for a good seat. The seating on the sides on floors two and three are extremely tight and you will only see the singers on a tv monitor.

Practical tips:

  • Not all cafes and restaurant accept credit cards
  • Über works very well
  • Make reservations well in advance, also for museums
  • Servings are enormous
  • Sundays everything is closed, except for museums and restaurants

Margaretha Finnstedt

The Curated Atlas

Introduction

Posted on by Margaretha Finnstedt

I used to love TripAdvisor, but the trust faded when business owners got creative with securing good ratings. I confess to being a demanding traveller, and a seeker of the extraordinary, and why not?
Time is precious, so why not aim for an incredible experience rather than just a good one?
 
I have joyfully invested countless hours and millions of steps to collect experiences that earned their place in crafting the perfect weekend. With a few exceptions, these tips would not be found on the typical hop-on-hop-off route. There are plenty of those already. My curated atlases contain food, culture, and a selection of practicalities.   
 
My recipe for crafting the perfect weekend getaway includes four essential ingredients:

  1. Define your purpose. Don’t just book a flight to Rome or London and see what happens. What dream are you feeding? Do you yearn for an opera under an open sky? Are your tastebuds craving the best pizza in Naples? Or perhaps you simply long to bask in the opulence of a Parisian boutique hotel?
  2. Expand your horizons. Elevate your travel experience by savouring local dishes and experimenting with new wines. Immerse yourself in the world of emerging artists at the Royal Academy of Arts or embark on a time travel to the ancient cave towns of Cappadocia. Wherever you go, open your mind and dive into your destination full-heartedly.
  3. Something physical and nature connected. Stroll among the rustling autumn leaves of Jardin Luxemburg. Rent a bike ride in Central Park, or why not join the locals for a morning jog or swim?
  4. Don’t rush. Resist the urge to do everything. Instead, focus on a few good, enriching experiences, allowing room for spontaneous stops and turns.

My guides are a fusion of personal experiences intertwined with recommendations from a carefully curated selection of sources. Unless explicitly noted, I finance all my travels personally.  

Margaretha Finnstedt

The Curated Atlas