- Time of year: 3rd weekend of August
- Weather: Sunshine and 28-33 C
- Travel companions: Three picky wine interested couples 50+
- Films/tv-series to watch before you go: Letters to Juliet (2010), not for the story, but to catch a glimpse of the city
- What to pack: Sunscreen, hat, shorts and t-shirt for biking, formal dress for the opera
- Where to stay: Relais a Ponte Pietra (super comfy budget with large rooms and breakfast served in your room), Vista Verona (luxury)
If Naples embodies charming chaos, Verona is its poised counterpart. As you step into this ancient city of approx. 300,000, with its roots stretching back over 2,000 years to Roman times, you’re immediately struck by its elegance and historical depth. A UNESCO World Heritage site nestled on the banks of the Adige River—Italy’s second-largest—Verona echoes the splendor of Florence but with a quieter, cleaner, and less hurried vibe. It’s easy to see why Shakespeare set his tragic love story, Romeo and Juliet, in this timeless city. With more than 500 vineyards dotting the surrounding hills, it’s impossible not to fall in love with Verona and its scenic beauty.
Our primary draw to Verona was to experience an opera at the iconic Arena, but we found just as much joy e-biking through the rolling vineyards of Valpolicella. Combining these exceptional experiences with Verona’s stellar food and wine scene made this weekend one of our all-time favorites.
The midnight opera – 9 PM-midnight
Verona’s Arena, an amphitheater dating back to 30 AD, is a marvel of antiquity and a testament to Roman engineering. Hosting over 15,000 opera enthusiasts, it’s crucial to book early if you prefer padded seats close to the stage. Those who wait too long might find themselves with a true Roman experience—sitting on stone benches far from the action.
Seated in the 17th row, we were perfectly positioned to enjoy The Barber of Seville, enhanced by a full ensemble of dancers who took advantage of the expansive stage, offering a spectacle beyond what any traditional opera house could provide. Despite the heat, temperatures lingering around 27°C, the audience in the Poltronissime (first sector stalls) was immaculately dressed, adding to the evening’s grand atmosphere.
During intermission, guests can stretch their legs and enjoy refreshments in the ancient corridors, a surreal experience that marries two millennia of history with modern indulgence. With its efficient entrances and exits, the Arena’s organization is remarkable, allowing the vast audience to enter and leave with ease.
For dinner before the opera, Ristorante Vittorio Emanuele offers the perfect vantage point to watch elegantly dressed opera-goers pass by while sipping on a chilled Soave or a refreshing limoncello spritz. Reservations are a must if you want to secure a front-row table in the outdoor section. Inside, the restaurant’s decor transports you back to late 19th century—simply stunning.
Biking the vineyards
Originally, we hadn’t planned on biking, but with temperatures soaring to 30°C, the idea of walking through the city became less appealing. Enter Itinera Bike & Travel, an e-bike tour company offering guided rides through the vineyards with a sommelier. What better way to explore?
Verona’s vineyards are part of one of Italy’s most esteemed wine regions, celebrated for their diverse range of high-quality wines like Valpolicella (including Amarone), Soave (my new favourite white wine), Bardolino, Custoza, and Lugana. The fertile soil and favorable climate produce everything from robust reds to delicate whites and refreshing rosés. Our guide, Sofia, was a wealth of knowledge, not only about the wines but also about Verona’s rich history. She led us to Capurso Vineyard, a boutique winery where the owner, Selina, treated us to a tasting of their superb Amarone and even some unexpectedly delightful grappa.
The four-hour e-bike tour flew by, leaving us craving more. So much so that we rented e-bikes the following day for a self-guided tour using Itinera’s mobile app, which took us through equally stunning routes, biking near streams and passing by kiwi-trees.
Cooling Off with Granita and Gelato
With temperatures hitting 30°C, we relished every chance to cool down with granita and gelato, available on nearly every street corner. Granita, a semi-frozen dessert from Sicily, is lighter than ice cream and a perfect refresher in the heat. Our favorite spot was Q.B. Gelato La Ricetta Del Gelato Naturale on via Santo Stefano, where everything is made with natural ingredients. Do try the watermelon granita—it’s a revelation. (It was so tempting I forgot to take a photo before getting half way through). When you go, don’t miss the possibility to take the Funicular, a small cable car that takes you to the view point San Pietro castel that allows you to view the entire city. Once there, enjoy a local sparkling wine at Re Tederico.
Romeo, Juliet, and That Balcony
Yes, Verona has a balcony that claims ties to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it’s all part of the myth. The house may have inspired the story, but the balcony was added in the 1930s purely for tourism. Still, it’s worth a visit for a quick photo and a moment to appreciate one of the greatest love stories ever told.
Where to eat:
- Fine foods with a posh atmosphere – Ristorante Vittorio Emanuelle – across the Arena
- Fine foods with cosy and classic atmosphere – Osteria Ponte Pietra – by the Ponte Pietra bridge
- Great classics with modern twist – Osteria la Fontanina – don’t miss their limoncello spritz
- Q.B. Gelato – ask for the watermelon granita.
- Osteria Caffé Monte Baldo – a wine and tapas bar with great drinks and good winelist
- Archivio – super small and busy cocktail bar with hand crafted beers
This trip was made in August 2024.
