Brooklyn – a mixed bag of charm and neglect

• Time of year: mid October
• Temperature: 22-26 C, dry comfortable heat, around 15 C at night
• Travel companion: Solo during daytime, met up with (working) husband for dinner
• Films/tv series to watch before you go: Moonstruck and the Cosby Show (and so many more)
• What to pack: Daytime – super casual (sneakers, jeans & t-shirt or like the local women, yoga pants and t-shirt). Night time – also casual, jeans, boots and a nice shirt.
• Where to stay: Ace hotel – 100% hipster, but great DJ
• How to get around: rent a bike or Uber

I’m part of the generation that grew up with the Cosby Show, and I thought Lisa Bonet was the coolest person in the world. Microbrews and yoga pants? Not so much. But with all the buzz about Brooklyn’s rising popularity, I decided to see for myself if this New York suburb could be a destination for Generation X too.

The short answer? It wasn’t love at first sight. Brooklyn is a mix of the gorgeous and the neglected, a blend of charm and grit. Yet, as I wandered through its eclectic neighborhoods, I found myself appreciating its unique character. It’s a place where history and modernity collide, and while it may not have been an instant hit, I’m glad I gave it a chance. Brooklyn has its own kind of magic, one that’s worth experiencing, even if it takes a little time to fully appreciate.

Brooklyn – 7 districts, 66 neighborhoods

Brooklyn is three times the size of Manhattan. So covering all of it would take weeks. During my four day visit, I managed to visit four of the seven districts, much thanks to my rental bike that took me some 24 miles through Greenpoint, Williamsburg, Navy Yard, Dumbo, Downtown Brooklyn, Brooklyn Heights, Cobble Hill, Boerum Hill, Carroll Gardens, Red Hook, Gowanus, Sunset Park, Park Slope, Prospect Park, Prospect Hights, Crown Heights and Bedford-Stuyvesant. Some of these areas are well cared for and I would move in an instant, whilst others have been left to fall apart, and quite frankly are quite repulsive.

Brownstone haven

One of the delights of Brooklyn is the opportunity to admire its iconic brownstones, just like the house where the Huxtables lived (Brooklyn Heights). Nearly every neighborhood I visited featured at least a few blocks of these architectural gems, which emerged in the mid-19th century as Brooklyn transitioned from farmland to suburb. These brownstones, which flourished between 1860 and 1880, showcase a blend of architectural styles, characterized by high stoops and bay windows.

For the best-preserved examples, you don’t need to venture far—just cross the bridge to Brooklyn Heights. If you have more time, Carroll Gardens and Park Slope also boast some prime specimens. During my visit, which was three weeks before Halloween, many of the stoops were beautifully decorated, making for a delightful visual treat.

Williamsburg: hipsters and Hermés

Williamsburg, the hipster epicenter, is a vibrant blend of microbreweries, artisanal coffee shops, vintage clothing stores, record shops, pop-up galleries, tattoo parlors, quirky boutiques, and cocktail bars. As I wandered down Bedford Avenue, the main artery of Williamsburg, I kept an open mind. There was something familiar about this area, but it took me a moment to realize that the vibe and the slightly worn-down buildings transported me back to my college days. However, the housing and shops here cater more to DINKs (double income, no kids). It’s an ideal spot to mingle with people in their 20s and 30s.

On North 6th Street in Williamsburg, the scent of pot gradually gives way to the aroma of matcha and oat milk lattes. This street begins with a sleek new high-rise residence on the East River and stretches into revamped warehouses hosting premium retailers like Hermès, Patagonia, Birkenstock, and Lululemon. Despite the shops being housed in old industrial buildings, which should lend an air of authenticity, the area feels almost too perfect, too gentrified. On this quiet weekday, it was sleepy and serene. I soaked it all in but found myself leaving quicker than I had anticipated.

Red hook and Sunset Park

Red Hook is a stark contrast to the polished streets of western Williamsburg. No Hermès in sight—at least, not yet. With construction buzzing all around, it’s only a matter of time. But for now, you can savor the charm of this neighborhood as it stands, offering a glimpse into its pre-transition days. It’s a bit rough around the edges, but that’s part of its allure.

This peninsula boasts stunning views of the Statue of Liberty and the Manhattan skyline, making it feel more like a laid-back village than a part of New York City. The pile of wood in front of Hometown Bar-B-Que says it all: Red Hook is authentic, gritty, and undeniably charming.

South of Red Hook lies, Sunset Park, which is not at all what its name suggests. Instead of a serene haven with park benches and romantic restaurants, this area is home to a prison and a cluster of industrial buildings. But don’t let that deter you—there’s a hidden gem here worth exploring, the Brooklyn Grange, the world’s largest urban rooftop garden.

Spanning 5.6 acres across three rooftops in Brooklyn and Queens, Brooklyn Grange grows over 80,000 pounds of organic produce annually and operates New York City’s largest apiary. This incredible farm supplies numerous local restaurants with fresh vegetables and has been a beacon of sustainable urban agriculture since its inception in 2010. The farm is open to the public one Sunday every month. Once you are up there, you can see the Manhattan skyline, a striking contrast to the prison next door. No credit cards excepted.

Open House – striking gold

I didn’t even know it existed, so I was delighted to discover Open House New York (OHNY). OHNY is a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting broad access to the city’s most fascinating places, people, projects, and ideas. This event offers unparalleled opportunities to explore New York City’s architectural and cultural treasures, including the Brooklyn Grange and art palaces like Powerhouse Arts, housed in a former turbine hall.

Some venues require pre-booking, but many simply allow you to show up and explore. It’s like uncovering hidden gems scattered throughout Brooklyn and beyond. This experience alone is a compelling reason to return and delve deeper into the city’s rich tapestry. If you ever get the chance, don’t miss out on this extraordinary event—it’s a true celebration of New York’s vibrant and diverse heritage.

Culinary Delights

Dining in Brooklyn is fun and relaxed, a culinary journey that promises excitement at every turn. From Michelin-starred establishments to charming delis and start-ups, the vibrant and diverse food scene is a feast. Here, avoiding franchises and food chains is a breeze. If, like me, you love the charm of semi-formal and informal independent restaurants featuring New American cuisine, Brooklyn is your playground.

Picture this: small, cozy restaurants with ambitious chefs and sommeliers, each one a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. My absolute favorite? The fried shrimp loaf at Strange Delight, a dish so divine it could make angels weep, perfectly paired with a crisp wine from Oregon. And if that’s not enough to tempt you, their oysters are a must-try. Don’t let the messy area outside deter you—inside, culinary magic awaits. Just remember to make a reservation, because this is one experience you won’t want to miss. For reviews and reservations, use Resy or Eater or the Infatuation.

Manhattan vs Brooklyn

One of the most striking differences between Manhattan and Brooklyn is the people. Certainly, also in Brooklyn there are tourists, but the vast majority actually live here, in contrast to Manhattan that is a mixed bag of commuters, tourists and of course locals. This creates a different atmosphere that is more relaxed and a lot more friendly. So even as a visitor, the friendliness of the locals made it feel like a neighborhood rather than a tourist destination.

A highlight was our night at the Ace Hotel, where the bar buzzed with energy thanks to a lively DJ. The atmosphere was inclusive—60-70% of the crowd seemed to be locals, and we felt part of the gang. The drinks were exceptional, and as the night progressed, people began dancing, turning the bar into a joyful celebration.

October – best time of year for New York

Summer in New York can be sweltering, but October hits the sweet spot. The days are warm enough for a t-shirt, the leaves are ablaze with color, and if you time it right, the latter half of the month brings a delightful array of Halloween decorations. For a break from the bustling streets and a chance to soak in the autumn foliage, head to Brooklyn’s largest green space—Prospect Park.

Hop on your bike and take a leisurely ride around the park, marveling at the vibrant trees. Then, make your way to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, where the natural beauty continues to unfold. After exploring the gardens, reenergize with a delicious lunch and a glass of New York wine at the Yellow Magnolia Café. (Pro tip: skip the canteen next door for a more refined dining experience.) This October escape offers the perfect blend of nature, relaxation, and seasonal charm.

Brooklyn: A Place to Return?

So, is Brooklyn a place for me to return? And would I recommend it to my friends? Without a doubt, Brooklyn offers a different experience compared to the more refined and established offerings of Manhattan. For my friends who relish moments of surprise, alternative art and music scenes, and a bit less polished experiences, I would say absolutely. However, for those who prefer the high-end shopping of New Bond Street in London or Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, Brooklyn might not be their cup of tea.

Will I go back? I would return for the Open House weekend, the Halloween decorations, to see how Red Hook and some of the other neighborhoods evolve over the coming years, and of course, for the Shrimp Loaf at Strange Delight—strangely delicious .